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When compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest shop earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.